A Walk About With Larry

Rantepao reflections, leaving on the overnight bus tonight

A cloudy Saturday here and rain is threatening. I’ve been very fortunate with the weather! Many travelers I meet are planning their trip by looking up weather forecast on the web. It’s driving them crazy!!! They ask me what I think about going to the Togian Islands because they heard….blah, blah, blah, rain every day and horrible!

My recommendation, forget about the forecast and check in to see if it “feels right” to go there! I was advised in Kuala Lumpur not to go to Taman Negara; then not to go to the Cameron Highlands; then not to go to Penang; certainly don’t go to Northern Sumatra and especially not Lake Toba; “I cancelled a trip to Sandakan because I heard it is so wet; and so forth. I had great experiences in all those places because “I am here NOW” and it felt right to go check them out.

My arrival here was perfect! We paid $120,000 rupiah for the bus ride from Tentena with a new company named Bintang. The bus is perhaps the most comfortable I’ve ever ridden on! It was supposed to get us in around 6:00 pm so we could get the bus onward to Rantepao. Suzana, Jon and I were able to negotiate the private car for $250,000 and made it to Rantepao that night after a long day. However, it was a great decision to get in all the travel in one day.

The next morning reflected some of the contrasts I’ve encountered here. Even though it is a tourist hub, the people here are very simple, don’t speak much English, and want to be very helpful. There are a few, as would be expected in a tourist town, who tell you whatever it takes to get your money.

My first morning at Wisma Maria, I walked into the dining room for breakfast which is included in the price of the room. Doris in Tentena told me Maria’s has a great breakfast but she didn’t know anything about the rooms. The breakfast was indeed superb with fresh baked bread!

The young woman serving it wore a T-shirt with the message: darkness can’t drive out the dark, only light can do that. I don’t believe she had any idea of what it meant but it was a nice reminder for me.
Then, I saw a man outside who turned his back flashing a message: “Fuck It All”. Well, there is the other side!

I tried to make conversation with a young woman sitting at the next table but she would have none of it and was putting out the vibe to stay our of her space. When I finished eating, she turned and said hello. “The Girl With The Dragon Tattoo” was sitting in front of her so I asked if she enjoyed the book? That broke the ice.
She began telling me of all the bad experiences she’s had. WOW! I hadn’t experienced one of those. Then she said she thought it was because she is a woman traveling alone. I’ve only met one other woman who ranted about bad experiences and both seemed to radiate an energy that was distancing and uncomfortable.

Once you make your mind up, you radiate an energy that comes back to you. Blame the world or, once again, look in the mirror! I was going to help her with ferry schedules for the Togian Islands but never saw her again.

My first day was a chill day of walking around, getting oriented, finding tourist information, and meeting Newman. I did find two internet cafe’s that weren’t totally baffled by the fact I had my own computer, were able to get me connected and provided fast connections.
I asked Dani at one of them for a restaurant recommendation and walked North about 7 or 8 blocks for Restaurant Riman. It was so good, I went back and thanked him! I may go back there for a nice dinner before getting on the bus at 9:00 pm for the overnight bus trip to Makassar. Suzana and Jon are on the same bus, it’s the line we traveled with getting her but their even more deluxe air cushion ride version!

My day with Newman learning about the funeral rituals was great! I’m so glad I did that and I learned a ton which I will write on another post. Yesterday, I rented a motorbike and headed off in the opposite direction from the day before. North, into the mountains, climbing to gorgeous views and their own version of the funeral rituals.

More contrast up there. Most people were very friendly with their smile and wave accompanied by “Halllow Meesteer”. The higher I got, the more shy people became and a few left once they saw me waking into their homes. Some boys, near the highest point of my trip, started screaming at me. They wanted their picture taken. As I took out my camera, they dropped their shorts to their knees and lifted their shirts dancing wildly and rudely. I put the camera away and could tell, by their screams raising in volume, they weren’t happy with me.

At dinner last night with Suzana and Jon, we were talking about the five or six phrases people here know in English: 1.) “Haaalllloooowww Meester”, 2.) “Where going”, 3.) “What’s your name”, 4.) “How you”, 5.) “Where u from”, and 6.) “What u looking for”.

I found a travel office here, the ONE travel office here. They have a sign for flights listing numerous airlines and also ticket for one of the bus lines. Apparently, there is fierce competition between the bus lines here! Tonight, between 7:00 and 9:00, their might be a dozen buses lined up on the street heading mostly in the same direction.

From Makassar, I wanted to get a flight to Lauban Bajo. Searching the internet showed no direct connections but flights did connect through Denpasar, Bali. I went to book a ticket. They did a quick look at one airline, Lion Air, and said it was only possible on Saturday or Tuesday! Saturday was too soon, Tuesday a bit late, so I went back to the web. I found flights every day.

Back at the agency, I had to “coax” them to look for options with other airlines. Specifically, I had to ask them to LOOK AT…Garuda Air, Batavia Air, etc. Finally, I decided it might be better to simply arrive at Denpasar since it’s an early flight and then look for an afternoon flight to Luaban Bajo. Once I decided to buy that one little ticket, it took 40 minutes to complete the transaction! Whew!

Coming back from the mountains yesterday and recalling a left turn on the map, I turned left. After a short time, I had a distinct feeling I was headed the wrong way. The wrong way in this case meant I was seeing more rice fields, scenery up to the mountains I had just descended, and small villages.
I stopped and did a decidedly “unmanly” thing, I asked someone. His answer baffled me at first! I pointed the way I was headed and asked if this goes to Rantepao? He spoke one word I didn’t understand so I asked again. Because I had seen the name of the town on the map, I suddenly realized he was telling me the next village.

He didn’t seem to have the capacity or understanding to be helpful and tell me where to go so I asked pointing in the direction I had come, “Rantepao”. More confusion! After several more tries and offering different variations of the same question, I got what appeared to be a head nod. When I thanked him, he beamed me with a huge smile and I turned around.

I’ve had the same sort of reaction here at cafe’s where I ordered french fries and got rice, was told only one room with single bed and had a huge room with king bed, and am learning I have to be extremely specific and detailed in asking!

Moments ago, I went to a photo place to get a copy of Doris and I so I could mail it to her. I asked the lady at the photo place where the POS (post office) was. First, some nervous giggling, then some discussion with others, more giggling and then pointing. I asked with my hands and words if it was on this road? And, how far indicating one block or two blocks or three blocks. A pow wow followed with three other ladies talking before she came back and said about 5 kilometers. I thanked them and left for the copy center and an envelope.

I got the envelope easily enough then caused a bit of stress asking where the POS was. One man asked another man who asked another man, another pow wow, much pointing, then a lady came in joining them before saying, “down there” pointing down the street. More confusion as they tried to think what it was near. I asked if it was near Restaurant Riman and they excitedly gestured that it was just a little beyond.

Then, I really put a twist in the conversation by pointing at my watch and asking if it was open. “OH NO….CLO….SED”….that’s the detail I have to remember!

It’s a nice town, easy on the Soul, simple friendly people and I’ll be a little sad when I leave tonight. However, with Bali looming on the horizon, I won’t be that sad. If I run into challenges getting a flight to Luaban Bajo, I’ll take a taxi to Ubud, reorganize my pack for Luaban Bajo and Komodo, leave my extra things, have a session with Eddy and then fly off.

Ciao…..

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